Money Blue Book

After months of waiting and checking my mail box regularly like a little kid waiting for his video game to arrive, I was finally relieved to discover a little envelope from the United States Treasury yesterday - my long awaited 2008 Economic Stimulus Payment check had finally arrived! Cha-ching (punctuated with a few obligatory fist pumping motions).

Actually, about a week ago I had already been given written notice that the check was on its way. I received one of those pointless waste of paper junk mail letters from the Internal Revenue Service (IRS) letting me know that I was entitled to an economic stimulus payment check as provided by the Economic Stimulus Act of 2008, and to expect its arrival in a week or so. The letter also provided a simple breakdown of how the federal government calculated my small time stimulus payment.

But what was the point of sending this predecessor letter out to let me know this? Why is the IRS and federal government so oblivious and wasteful when it comes to wasting millions of dollars on paper and delivery costs to send out these pointless letters? Why not just combine the calculation breakdown letter with the actual stimulus rebate check that I received yesterday rather than sending them separately on different weeks? The financial savings for the federal government could easily have been several million dollars. Especially since we are now in an economic recession and the government keeps griping and raising issues about needing to balance the budget, and even some of the presidential candidates like Barack Obama keeps talking about raising taxes against those with higher incomes to pay for more federal government programs, why not practice some fiscal sense now by adopting real cost cutting techniques? The government’s habitual wasteful spending activities truly baffles me sometimes.

How My Economic Stimulus Tax Rebate Was Calculated

While I had hoped to receive my economic stimulus rebate via direct deposit, because I filed my 2007 tax return through TurboTax and actually owed a sizable amount of taxes, I was not able to provide my bank account routing numbers on my tax return for direct deposit purposes. Thus I was one of many who had to wait for my economic stimulus check to be mailed via the postal service.

Taking a look at my rebate, here is how my actual stimulus payment was broken down, in case you’re wondering. Because my adjusted gross income on my reported 2007 federal income tax return was above $75,000, the IRS reduced my stimulus payment by 5% of the amount of my adjusted gross income exceeding $75,000. As such, with my single filing status starting qualification amount of $600 increased by $0 for my lack of qualifying children, but reduced by $230.25 for the adjusted gross income limitation, my final calculated stimulus payment turned out to be only $369.75. It’s not a whole lot, especially since the cost of living in my D.C./Maryland suburban neighborhood is pretty high, but I suppose every little bit helps me pay the bills in the grand scheme of things.

How I Plan To Spend My Economic Stimulus Check, and Its Impact On My Future 2008 Tax Return

I’m obviously elated to receive my tax rebate check finally after all these months, but after looking at the relatively small amount, it sort of leaves me wondering, how is this small amount of money really supposed to stimulate the economy to any significant degree? While the check is certainly free windfall money in the sense that I wasn’t really expecting it or planning for it until recently, the amount isn’t really large enough for it to be good for much.

I considered several financially smart as well as a few fun but reckless ways to spend my tax rebate, now that I have it in my hand. Here are the choices and possible options I came up with:

1. Use the economic stimulus payment to help pay my rent - The downside is that with a pricey monthly rental obligation of $1,425.00, this small economic stimulus payment isn’t likely to make much of a dent in my case.
2. Deposit the small stimulus rebate into my high APY savings account to earn interest and help build up my backup emergency fund - I usually try to keep at least enough liquid cash in my savings account to last 6 months. I advocate more emergency fund savings than most, but I think this offers greater peace of mind. In this recession, you never know what unfortunate events may strike when you least expect it - everything from out of the blue vehicle repair charges to sudden unemployment necessitating the need to file for unemployment insurance benefits.
3. Save the stimulus rebate for retirement and contribute the amount towards my Roth IRA retirement fund. This is a good way to plan for the future. Great for you, but not so good for the economy (at least for the present time).
4. Pay off debt - While this sounds like a logical choice, other than my usual monthly revolving credit cards bills that I always pay off in full, my 0% APR balance transfer credit card arbitrage funds, and my very low interest student loans, I don’t have significant debt that demands my immediate attention to speak of. I think I’ve done a pretty good job of managing debt.
5. Spend the money and actually help directly stimulate the economy by injecting it back into the stream of commerce - Possibilities include using it for discretionary entertainment reasons like spending it on expensive movie tickets or even just using the amount to pay for necessary driving expenses brought about by spiraling high gas prices.

After much thought, I decided to deposit the amount into my high yield savings account like a good grasshopper (or was it the ant) and save for a rainy day. Why change my frugal savings minded personality just because I came upon some windfall money? I’m the type of person who would probably still drive around in a rain storm for a free car wash to save some money as a force of habit even after winning a lottery for millions.

As for the taxation aspects of the economic stimulus payment, due to the terms and nature of the Economic Stimulus Package, recipients of the tax rebate such as myself will not have to report the amount of our stimulus payments as taxable income on our 2008 federal income tax returns. The amount is indeed free money and not something we will have to pay back or pay taxes on. Furthermore, if any recipient also received any other federal benefits or federally financed benefits, those benefits generally will not be affected by any stimulus payment received as well.

Where’s My Economic Stimulus Payment? Ask The Almighty IRS

For those of you who are still waiting for your stimulus tax rebates with bated breath, you should utilize this handy IRS stimulus rebate tool to locate the status of your economic stimulus payment. It should be able to answer your most pressing tax rebate question. To use the online tool and verify your identity, you’ll need to provide your social security number, your filing status, and the total number of your exemptions.

If you still are not able to obtain a satisfactory answer, you may want to visit your local Taxpayer Assistance Center for help or call the IRS via the Rebate Hotline at 1-866-234-2942 for updates.

If you’re like most people out there, there’s inevitably going to come some point in your life when you’ll need to apply for credit and seek out deeper pockets to help you fulfill your personal financial goals and objectives. While the traditional American dream of home ownership seemed to be fading out of reach during the last few years, the housing meltdown is now thankfully forcing out of control real estate prices back down into sync with reality. But with the resultant repercussions and reverberations of the financial credit crisis, mortgage lenders have grown extra vigilant in weeding out unproven and unreliable mortgage debtors. While a mortgage applicant with a FICO score of 700 in the past could have easily obtained a lofty prime interest rate on their loan, lenders are now increasingly demanding higher FICO’s in excess of 760 for the same prime interest package. The subprime credit mess has made one’s credit report and credit score even more important gateway factors to determining who qualifies and who doesn’t for the loan conditions of their choice. It’s not just for expensive, higher denominational credit prospects like mortgage loans either - even routine applications for things like credit cards, checking accounts, auto loans, and even new jobs are undergoing greater credit worthiness scrutiny.

Both Your Credit Report History and Credit Score Help Determine Your Credit Worthiness, But Credit Scores Are More Uniform Measures Of Comparison From Individual To Individual

While credit reports, like your high school transcript does a better overall job in revealing the compete performance history of the individual, oftentimes, it’s the credit score, like the mathematically calculated grade point average (GPA) that is given the greatest initial attention. Like the analogous school GPA’s, credit scores are frequently used by major lenders to serve as cut off points to determine who will enjoy speedy approval and those who will require further scrutiny. As such, a high credit score serves up the best first impression when it comes to getting quickly approved for credit cards, car loans, and mortgages. Your complete credit report transcript conveys the rest of your credit history, but it’s your credit score that provides that first impression to determine whether you instantly qualify or not. If you’ve ever wondered why some people can get online and get instantly approved for a credit card in seconds, that’s because their credit scores are likely so remarkably high, credit card issuers feel they have more than enough information right off the bat to grant application approval. The same can be said for pre-qualification terms for mortgage or auto loans for favorable rates.

For those of you who buy into the financial wisdom of some personal finance pundits who advocate a cash only lifestyle and preach against all forms of debt, I personally think that is an all too safe but foolish perspective to cling to. It’s not credit or debt that is so evil, it’s the lack of financial education and mismanagement that dooms one to failure. Unless you are a millionaire, come from a very wealthy family, or your last name is Gates, Buffett, or Walton (of Walmart fame), you will inevitably need to take on student loans, car loans, or a housing mortgage loan in some form or another sometime during your life span. A cash only lifestyle is appropriate for engaging in small time transactions, but for the pricier car and home buying process, you will inevitably need to call upon your built up credit history and credit score eventually.

So What Is The Purpose Of Having A Good Credit Score And How Is It Calculated?

Your credit score is basically a three digit number that is mathematically generated by credit reporting agencies based on information found on your individual credit report. The credit score is a numeral representation used to assess your past debt payment history and predict your ability to fulfill future debt obligations. Everytime you perform actions or transactions that relate to the extension of credit in the real world, that request for credit is submitted to the three major U.S. credit bureaus (Equifax, Experian, TransUnion) for recordation. By taking that continuously updated information and plugging it into a special mathematical formula, credit bureaus can generate an up to date credit score on demand to accurately predict your present and future ability to pay off incurred liabilities. Positive actions like on-time payment and low credit usage will boost your credit score, while negative events like bankruptcies, foreclosures, and failures to pay on time will hurt your score. Experience and trends have shown that those with higher credit scores are more responsible with credit and are less likely to default on loans. However, because credit transactions are not always equally sent to all big three consumer credit reporting agencies and not all information is processed by all three in the same mistake or error-free way, there are bound to be slight differences and discrepancies among different credit bureau scoring results, even if they all utilized the same credit scoring methodology. Keep in mind, Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion all individually generate their own credit score results on request.

But in general, one’s credit score is a fairly uniform mathematical measure of credit worthiness. Banks, credit card companies, and mortgage creditors are in the business of taking on risk, and thus utilize this invaluable scoring system to gauge prospects. In exchange for taking on risk, these institutions are willing to extend you money on loan, but in return they expect to be compensated for the financial risk they take on in the form of additional interest rate payments. Different degrees of risk and possibilities of default demand different levels of interest. If you’re a risky debtor with a shaky credit history, you will be required to pay higher interest payments to the creditor to offset the risk. If you are a more reliable debtor, chances are your interest obligations will be a lot less. That is why it is important to keep your credit score high - it’s one of the most important things that lenders look at when they evaluate your financial profile. You might be a nice guy or a nice gal, really deserving of credit approval, but if your credit score is lackluster, your chances may be shot.

What Is The FICO Credit Score Made Up Of, and How Are The Scoring Categories Weighted?

When most people speak about credit scores, more likely than not they are referring to the FICO credit score, the popular credit scoring system created by the Fair Isaac Corporation. There are currently several alternative credit scoring systems out there, most notably, the new VantageScore jointly developed by the big three credit reporting agencies, Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion, but the FICO is still the most widely used scoring method. I recommend avoiding the VantageScore for now and staying clear of credit vendors that attempt to hawk it. Because the VantageScore also uses a three digit scoring system but on a different numerical range from 501-990, obtaining it at this time will only serve to confuse you. Because most lenders have not broadly adopted the use of the VantageScore yet, you are better off focusing on the FICO exclusively for now. There really is no particular purpose for consumers or lenders to adopt the VantageScore at this point in time as its development was primarily business motivated rather than designed to benefit the consumer. The credit reporting agencies simply got tired of having to pay royalties to Fair Isaac for utilizing their proprietary scoring formula and wanted to create their own cheaper version. For now, stick with the genuine FICO - it’s the most widely used credit score and currently still the most relevant by far.

The FICO credit score is formulated on a scale from 300 to 850, however most people will have scores between 600 and 800. It’s unlikely to find many people with scores below or above this general scoring range. As a rule of thumb, any FICO score that is above 700 should be deemed good, although in this current market, a FICO of 750 will probably be needed to guarantee you the most favorable loan rates. Here is how the FICO credit score is generated and broken down into its composition categories according to pie chart percentages:

1) Your Credit and Debt Payment History - ( 35% of Your FICO)

This is the absolute most important factor in determining your FICO credit score. To have a high score, you’ll need to develop a history of timely and punctual bill payments. When lenders evaluate you as a prospective credit candidate, they want to see that you have a solid history of not only fulfilling debt obligations, but that you also have a track record of paying on time. Past late payments and unpaid debts sent to collections will significantly damage your FICO score. Negative factors like bankruptcy and defaulted payments will hurt your score as well. How badly a failure to pay or a late payment will affect your credit score is determined by the total number of past due items, how long they were past due, and the length of time since your last late payment. Because the payment history category is weighted to favor more recent transactions over older actions on your credit history, it’s never too late to start paying on time. Better late than never.

2) Amounts and Balances Owed - ( 30% Of Your FICO)

The second most important factor other than timely payment is the total amount of credit money that you owe and the proportional amount of your total available credit utilized. If you are already carrying a substantial amount of active debt in the form of existing home mortgages, home equity lines, car loans, student loans, or credit cards, you are less favorable as a candidate to take on additional debt. Because of your existing debt obligations, you are seen as a greater potential credit risk. However, your total amount of outstanding debt can be hugely tempered and your risk factor greatly minimized by having a lower debt usage ratio.

Under the FICO formula, someone with an outstanding credit card balance of $900, with a total available limit of $1000 (utilization ratio of 90%) is deemed to be riskier than someone who has an outstanding credit card balance of $2000, but with a total credit limit of $10,000 (utilization ratio of 20%). Being saddled with a lot of debt isn’t necessarily bad in terms of your credit score if you are well under your total available credit limit. Obviously the more zero balance revolving credit accounts you have on your credit report the better, but the amount of your credit usage in proportion to your total credit available goes a long way to boosting your score.

Example: As someone who regularly engages in credit card arbitrage, I frequently carrying large 0% APR balances on my 0% balance transfer credit cards. But despite my high credit balances, I maintain a stellar FICO score (FICO of 758), attributable to my low overall credit usage ratio. I might carry credit card balances in excess of $20,000 on multiple cards, but because I have over $80,000 of unused revolving credit available to me, my low proportional usage keeps my FICO high.

3) Length of Your Credit History - ( 15% Of Your FICO)

When it comes to the FICO credit score, the older the credit account, the better. That is why consumers are sometimes encouraged to initiate credit usage at an earlier age, if only for the sole purpose of building up credit. College students are sometimes advised to open at a least one student credit card for the purpose of building up a credit history file. Those who stick with cash only and wait till later in life to start opening credit accounts are ultimately short changed when it comes to their FICO scores. The same rationale is also why it is almost never advisable to cancel old credit cards. Unless you are obsessive and compulsive when it comes to credit card spending, you should keep those older cards around and let the accounts age like fine wine. You don’t necessarily have to use those cards - just put them away in a drawer if you have to. Because the length of your credit history is based on the average ages of your total active credit accounts, it’s in your best interest to keep old accounts open indefinitely. If you absolutely must cancel a credit card, cancel a newer card instead. Closing out an old account will have the unintended backfire effect of hurting your FICO credit score.

4) Types Of Existing Credit Owned - ( 10% Of Your FICO)

The FICO scoring system favors credit users who are diverse with their usage. The system likes to see users mix it up a little and not just focus on one type of installment usage - like credit cards alone. In general, older individuals with longer credit histories usually tend to have a greater mix of credit account types, thus higher scores. While revolving credit accounts like mortgages and car loans help to inject some diversity into your usage, one shouldn’t go out of one’s way to mix it up purposely. Focus more on paying all bills on time and limiting your credit usage instead (they comprise 65% of your FICO credit score). In my opinion, this category has the least relevance and the least impact on your overall credit score.

5) New Credit or Recent Credit Sought - ( 10% Of Your FICO )

This is where hard credit checks and soft credit checks come in. Everytime you affirmatively submit an application for a loan or additional credit, a hard credit pull is made against your credit report. The resulting credit pull will have a short term negative hit against your formulated FICO score (in time the score will recover). In general, new and recent requests for credit are seen as risky factors in the eyes of lenders. However, new requests for additional revolving credit that follows a recent late payment will likely cause a more significant drain against your score, as they are seen as ominous signs of financial desperation.

However, the way the FICO system is set up, frequent requests for credit within a relatively short 30 day period is discounted in terms of aggregate negative effects on your credit score. This is to compensate and alleviate the effects of those who are merely interest rate shopping for mortgages or car loans who are likely to submit numerous applications within a short period of time. This is the reason why balance transfer arbitrage seekers are often advised to submit their numerous credit card applications simultaneously within a short period of time to minimize the overall hit against their credit score. As always though, only hard credit checks negatively affect your FICO. Self credit checks initiated by you to examine your own credit report or credit score will never hurt your rating.

What Is Not Considered In Your Credit Score, And How To Boost Your FICO

While the FICO score is a very important factor to those seeking instant approval for credit or a quicker path to the best loan terms and conditions, it’s not the end all. Lenders also carefully scrutinize your credit report and other financial factors like income, job stability, education, and amount of money you have in your checking and savings accounts to determine your credit worthiness. That’s because many relevant personal risk factors are not appropriately reflected in the credit report or the credit score model compiled by the big three credit reporting bureaus. Such information include age, race, sex, income, savings, marital status, education, and your current type of housing.

The FICO score also struggles with formulating an accurate score representation for new entrants into the credit world. Those with short credit histories like recent immigrants or college students are unlikely to have much of a credit report transcript to work off of. As evidenced by the Fair Isaac Corporation’s efforts at formulating and developing its new FICO Expansion Score to gauge the credit worthiness prospects of those with incomplete or thin files, the existing FICO system as is probably still needs some improvement, and is far from perfect. However, until a better thing comes along, consumers need to find ways to improve and keep their credit ratings high. Unless you don’t have plans to seek new employment, apply for a new credit card, obtain a home mortgage loan, find a new apartment, or apply for insurance in the next few years, it’s in your self interest to improve your FICO credit score and keep it high in case you ever need to use it.

As it is relevant to your ultimate credit score, I’d recommend taking several minutes to download a free credit report at annualcreditreport.com. With this free federal government service, you get to request a single credit report from each of the three major credit bureaus every four months. Instead of requesting all three credit reports at once, you might want to stagger them out to three times a year for continuous monitoring. If you spot an error, notify the bureau (online, by phone or by mail) and the creditor (call and also send a letter) immediately. While your credit score isn’t free, there are ways to get get your free credit score from the big three credit reporting agencies. Remember, if you want consistency, stick with the FICO score exclusively for now.

I consider myself one of many rate chasers out there - savvy savers who hunt for the best annual percentage yield (APY) interest rates at banks and credit unions, and who are keen on quickly moving large sums of money from one account to another in pursuit of that financial ideal. High yield interest rate chasers seek out the highest available interest rate offerings possible, whether available at popular brick and mortar branches or whether available only through obscure online banks. We keep tabs on them all regularly and shift our bank balances around in pursuit of that elusive, but perfect high yield savings account. Rather than be content with letting our savings accounts sit idle, earning stable, yet passive interest growth, rate chasers such as myself prefer to actively manage our bank accounts to maximize interest earnings. Interest rates periodically change, thus so should we. Currently, I use my compiled list of the Best High Yield Savings Accounts to actively keep tabs on bank rate updates and changes.

High Yield Savings Accounts Offer Not Only Liquidity, But Rock Solid Financial Security and Reliable Growth As Well

While I have a diversified investment portfolio made up of high performing stocks, bonds, exchange traded funds, and mutual funds, I still try to put a sizable amount of what I own in cash form, invested in stable interest bearing savings accounts. The type of money I put in a savings account is money I can’t afford to risk or jeopardize, and the type of funds that I may need to call upon to weather difficult financial times or unexpected financial emergencies. While I personally use credit cards for emergency fund purposes at least in the short term, stable savings account funds make up the bulk of my long term emergency money strategy. I try to keep at least 6 months worth of liquid assets on hand at all times - money that can be quickly converted into usable cash to pay current bills and liabilities on a moment’s notice. You never know what type of sudden unemployment, cash flow, car trouble, or health problems might befall you that might necessitate the need to call upon such an emergency influx of readily available funds. I choose to invest my emergency fund money into savings and money market accounts because they not only provide a modest degree of interest growth that usually outpaces or at least keeps up with inflation, the invested funds are liquid and extremely well protected from loss. I plan to work certificate of deposits (CD’s) into my emergency fund planning approach in the future, but wish to save up more in my savings before dabbling with higher yielding, but less liquid assets like CD’s.

Some people call rate chasers - day traders of the banking world, but I think that’s a terrible analogy. Unlike day traders who trade on short term, violent swings in the stock market, we do not take actions that could even remotely be construed as gambling or high risk stakes. Interest rate chasers tend to be risk adverse, and are almost always play-it-safe type investors and emergency fund builders who seek safety and pursue predictable rates of return, rather than high flying, speculative investments.

Besides, bank accounts, whether checking, savings, or money market accounts are one of the most stable, reliable, and dependent sources of asset preservation. While most traditional banking institutions do not provide investment assets that will make one rich as their rates of return are generally lower than that offered by other investment options such as stocks, bonds, options, or foreign currency exchange, they do provide a very stable and predictable rate of return. Insured by the Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation (FDIC), the potential risk of loss of assets stored in a banking account is virtually nil. The FDIC, an independent agency of the United States government utilizes the full faith and credit of the federal government to protect the assets of all insured banks. Most major savings and banking associations are FDIC insured, and as such most traditional accounts offered by the insured bank, including checking, savings, money market accounts, CD’s, and even IRA retirement accounts are protected from loss. Even if the bank fails, goes bankrupt, goes out of business, gets robbed, burns down, or succumbs to some market catastrophe like the mortgage meltdown or credit crisis, the money stored in a FDIC insured high yield savings account remains 100% safe, up to the coverage amount. For savings accounts, the legal coverage limit is $100,000. If you own substantial assets that exceed this basic coverage limit and want to be 100% safe, you may want to consider spreading your assets among difference asset categories or banks.

Register With The Top High Yield Savings Accounts And Manage Your Fund Transfers As Interest Rates Periodically Fluctuate

There are certain basic steps savvy rate chasers and high yield online bank arbitrage seekers (as I like to them sometimes) take to properly manage their pursuit of high interest savings rates:

1) Open High Yield Accounts With Online Banks That Consistently Offer the Highest APY Interest Rates For Savings Accounts

I currently own several savings and money market accounts with the top online banks that have consistently offered the best APY interest rates. Personally, I avoid savings accounts from major brick and mortar retail banks like Wachovia, Wells Fargo, Bank of America, or even Citibank, since most rarely offer attractive interest rates as they don’t need to offer them to attract customers. Most of these big retail banks rely on convenience and physical location presence to attract clientele. On the other hand, online banking sites, blessed with lower operational and maintenance costs, are highly motivated and more willing to offer competitive interest rates for account holders.

Most of my recently opened high yield savings accounts are with generally well known online banking institution favorites like HSBC Direct, Countrywide’s Savings, Washington Mutual, WT Direct, E-trade Savings Bank, and Capital One Direct Savings. Oldies but goodies like ING Direct Savings (get an ING Direct Sign Up Bonus), and Emigrant Direct still remain alive and well as members of my complete savings account tracking roster. While the actual order in the interest rate sliding scale changes periodically, the mentioned banks tend to offer consistently high rates. After opening accounts, it’s simply a matter of tracking APY changes and shifting funds around accordingly.

It’s important as a rate chaser to have target bank accounts ready for quick transfers as interest rates change. Back in the old caveman days before the advent of the Internet, opening new savings accounts was cumbersome and limited to local brick and mortar branches, and phone banking was a pain. With the emergence of the Internet and the development of fully functional online banking websites, online funds can now be shifted around instantly with a few strategic key strokes. To manage your online accounts and prep them for transfers, all you have to do is register for online account access and set up linked ACH electronic access. To set up ACH transfer permissions, you’ll be required to submit information about the bank account that you want to link up - including the bank account number and the banking institution’s ABA routing number (you can ask your bank for this information). Frequently the online system will initiate two small denominational test deposits into your linked bank account, the amounts which you’ll have to verify to confirm that you are the actual owner.

2) Be Watchful Of New Bank Account Credit Report Check Penalties, and Electronic Bank Transfer Limits

If you’re like me, you try to maximize your money whenever possible. In my case, so long as the resulting effects don’t put myself in a potentially worse off financial position and the necessary actions to get me there aren’t too prohibitive, I try to go for the gold whenever possible. For those looking to open multiple bank accounts, one thing to keep in mind is the health of your credit score. When a new savings or money market account is opened, some banks initiate a hard credit check. The resulting hard credit pull, as it is sometimes called, may result in a small credit score hit in the nature of a request by one seeking credit. Not all banks initiate a hard credit pull that will ding your precious FICO score for new savings account applications, but some do. Examples of online bank account applications that result in harmless soft credit pulls include - Capital One Direct Savings, Countrywide, Emigrant Direct, E-Trade Savings, FNBO, HSBC Savings, ING Direct savings, and Washington Mutual.

Another thing rate chasers have to watch out for as well is the federal savings account limit of 6 ACH transfers a month. However, unless you are shifting your savings around every few days, the 6 ACH transfer limit per account should not be too much of a limitation or restrictive hassle. Be mindful that the transfer limitation also applies to money market deposit accounts as well. For most comparative factors, savings and money market accounts have little differences except money markets usually provide slightly higher interest rates and sometimes offer check writing privileges. However, money markets usually have higher tiered minimum balance requirements, although that is not always the case.

3) Manage Your Portfolio Of Multiple Savings Accounts By Using An Account Aggregation Service

To keep an eagle eye on your bank balances and army of savings accounts, I recommend using an account aggregation service like Yodlee, or Mint. Yodlee in particular offers its banking account consolidation service through other financial providers as well, such as Bank of America. In my case, I utilize Yodlee through Fidelity’s Full View access, which allows me to link up all of my high yield savings accounts and money markets to Fidelity Investments, storing my account passwords securely so that I can easily view my regularly updated account balances from one location. To make actual transfers however, you’ll have to log into the desired bank account directly.

4) Periodically and Regularly Shift Your Bank Balances Around As Major Interest Rate Changes Are Issued By the Federal Reserve

One thing to note is that I’m not a rabid or fanatic rate chaser. While some hardcore rate chasers shift their money around as soon as interest rate offerings change the slightest, I prefer to my make shift once or twice a month at the very most - call me a mild rate chaser if you wish. Usually I only shift my balances around in pursuit of higher APY rates every two or three months on average. Thus I don’t go hog wild over every slightest budge in APY, although there are lots of super online rate chasers who do though. Just look at those crazies who post on Fatwallet forums - they go nuts over a single .01% change.

Frequently, I fashion my fund transfers from one savings account to another around major interest rate moves by the Federal Reserve when I know major changes are coming my way. Upcoming federal reserve meeting dates on the calendar greatly interest me because decisions by the Federal Reserve frequently have a correlative effect across the board on the interest rate offerings by major banks. Rate cuts by the Fed usually signal subsequent APY interest rate drops by banks in a matter of days. Similarly, raises in the Fed Funds rate usually signal potential banking interest rate increases. Thus I usually try to make my electronic fund transfers as major rate changes are made across the board in response to Fed interest rate moves. Usually there is a lag time of about 1-2 weeks before banks at large fully and collectively respond to Fed announcements. Keep that in mind as well, lest you shift or chase that higher APY interest offering prematurely.

For those of you who are fortunate to have a stable job and blessed with being gainfully employed, congratulations and more power to you. For those of you who are currently unemployed or out of a job, I feel your frustration. I’ve been there before and know how scary and uncertain the experience can be.

In this fluctuating and unpredictable economy, you never quite know what is lurking around the corner. Life comes at us fast and sometimes job stability, occupational predictability, and all positive aspects of full time employment can disappear in a flash. Sometimes it can be due to our own fallibility and less than perfect work performance, and sometimes it can be due to slowdowns in the economy at large. Life is unpredictable and it’s hard to be certain whether there is such a field that’s a sure thing anymore. During the past few years, jobs and careers related to the real estate and housing market were hot and in great demand. However, years later, with the collapse of the housing bubble, many of the jobs previously fueled by the burgeoning real estate market have mostly disappeared. Even upper echelon MBA-type financial positions at top firms like Merrill Lynch have been down sized and trimmed back, resulting in many educated employees suddenly out of work.

If you find yourself one of many who have been laid off, I feel for you. I’ve been through a sudden job lay off before and it’s not an easy feeling or experience to go through. Not only does it put you in a sudden cash flow crunch, but it forces you to scramble around in desperation to find employment quickly. For those who have a wife, husband, or children depending on that income, the extra financial and familial pressures make the process even more urgent. However, it doesn’t have to be the end of the world. There are systems and governmental assistance programs in place to help guide and cushion you during those periodic times of unemployment - namely in the form of unemployment insurance benefits. Don’t let those invaluable financial benefits and entitlements pass you by during times of need - seize them immediately.

Do Not Let Petty Shame Or Guilt Prevent You From Filing For Unemployment Insurance Benefits - It’s Your Money and You Are Entitled To It

I’ve filed for unemployment benefits several times throughout my working career thus far. I will admit, the first time I filed, I felt a tinge of shame and guilt. I felt like it was a hit on my aura of financial independence and a stain on my own sense of masculine pride. As someone who was raised to believe that an important aspect of a man’s duty and responsibility was to provide for himself and his family, it was difficult for me to depend on governmental handouts for the first time. To me, receiving unemployment benefits meant I was now on welfare, and no better than some unmotivated or lazy 40 year old bum who lived in his parent’s basement like some financial leach on society.

However, now that I’ve had experience with being the recipient of unemployment benefits, I now understand what it truly is. To receive unemployment insurance benefits is by no means the same as receiving public welfare. It’s a genuine financial safety net that is subsidized by employers in a socialized manner to help decent working people get back on their feet quickly with as little financial destruction or burden as possible. While unemployment benefits provide free money for times when you’re not working, a fundamental and required tenant is that the recipient actively pursue employment leads while drawing on the temporary financial perks. Being a recipient has no effect on your existing credit score and the mere act of filing has no effect on your future employment prospects. The small amount of compensation provided isn’t sufficient to save or grow rich on, but is just enough to give one a semblance of financial continuity and feeling of self reliance until the person can get back on his or her feet. It helps those who want to help themselves.

Who Pays For The Funds Dispersed For Unemployment Benefits?

Unemployment benefits are provided by a special jointly run fund provided by federal and state payroll taxes called the Unemployment Insurance program. No part of an employee’s actual paycheck goes directly into this unemployment fund (unlike social security) but is instead indirectly funded by employers through a special unemployment insurance tax that they pay. Almost all employers are required to pay unemployment insurance tax to help fund this public service. Unlike worker’s compensation, the employer does not pay unemployment benefits to laid off employees directly, but payments are instead issued by the responsible state agency as needed. Even if an employer goes out of business, unemployment benefits can still be distributed out to the company’s now unemployed workers because funds are socially subsidized by other active employers who pay into this pool of shared funds. When you are out of work for whatever reason, it’s in your own interest to file for unemployment benefits as soon as possible. Even if you refuse to file for it, you should know that you are still indirectly paying for this socialized governmental service.

Remember, there is no shame in taking on this temporary financial safety net as a short term stop gap measure - it was designed for you when you need it the most. The money is rightfully yours because your employer pays into the fund on a mandatory basis. Without its existence, you theoretically would have been given higher pay. If because of pride, you refuse to take this temporary governmental handout, ask yourself this question - will pride put food on the table for your family in the meantime until you can find your next job? Will pride pay for necessary groceries or pay for a roof over your held until you can secure that next job interview? Think about it. Desperate times require desperate measures. I personally view unemployment benefits as part of my emergency fund measures.

As Soon As You Become Unemployed, File For Unemployment Benefits Immediately

The most important thing to know about seeking unemployment benefit compensation is to file as soon as you become either partially or fully unemployed. Even if you suspect you will be able to file a new job relatively soon, it’s still in your best interest to still file for it sooner than later. There is almost always a 1-2 week lag time between filing and when you receive benefits. Frequently, there is also a mandatory one week waiting period during which the first week will not be compensated for. The benefit clock starts when you file so if you wait around to see if a new job is forthcoming, you may miss out on much deserved unemployment entitlements. If you wait several months after becoming unemployed to file, you won’t be able to claim for the non-working months that have already passed. You can only claim for the time that comes after the moment you file, so don’t delay - get credit for every single moment you remain unemployed.

Even if you are confident that you have sufficient pre-existing emergency funds to live off of, it’s better to file and not risk the chance that your emergency funds ultimately run out. You don’t want to look back later down the road only after draining your bank account completely and racking up unpaid credit card bills, and realized that you ought to have filed for unemployment benefits earlier.

Where Do You File For Unemployment Benefits?

Unemployment benefit applications should be filed in the state where the work was performed. Check out this official U.S. Department of Labor List Of State Unemployment Agencies to determine the correct filing location. Most states today allow unemployment benefit applications to be filed via telephone, in person, or through the Internet. If you want to avoid the stigma or emotional embarrassment of filing for this entitlement in person, filing via phone or through the Internet is a great way to circumvent this problem. Not only that, those methods are also quicker ways get your money more expeditiously.

As mentioned, unemployment filings are made with the state unemployment agency in the state jurisdiction where the work was performed. If you lived in New York and worked in New York, you need to file your claim with the state of New York. What about those who lived in one state, but worked in another? In my case when I filed way back when, I lived in the state of Maryland, but worked in Washington D.C. Since I performed my employment in D.C., my place of unemployment benefit filing would be in D.C. since that’s where my employers actively paid their unemployment taxes to. I could still file with the state of Maryland, but would ultimately be referred by the unemployment hotline and managing system to seek benefits from Washington D.C.

Who Is Entitled To File For Unemployment Benefits and How Much Money Can You Expect?

Generally (individual state laws vary), to qualify for unemployment benefits, an applicant must (1) meet state eligibility requirements regarding how long the employee has previously been working and how much money the employee has earned, (2) make continuing and regular application updates to the managing state agency, (3) be continuously available for work and actively seeking work, and (4) not be subject to any disqualifying employment factor.

To be entitled for unemployment benefits, employees must have become unemployed through no fault of their own (although definitions on fault vary by state). Generally those who voluntarily quit their jobs or were discharged from their positions due to willful misconduct can’t qualify. However, if you were laid off due to downsizing or were discharged due to simple lack of work, you will probably be entitled to benefits. Once approved, to continue to draw on your weekly unemployment checks or direct deposits, you will required to submit weekly updates of your employment and income status either by phone or over the Internet. During that time, you are expected to actively look for work. Obviously the benefits will stop as soon as you become gainfully employed again. While it’s somewhat unlikely the state agency will know if you go on vacation during that period of time instead of looking for work, you should also know that by doing so, you are committing fraud and may be required to pay the benefits back along with penalty fees if discovered. I know some people who did decide to take a brief vacation while still drawing on unemployment benefits, managing to stay under the radar, but not everyone will be that fortunate. Big brother government has sneaky ways to track you down.

To file for unemployment benefits with your state agency, you will need to provide your name, mailing address, phone number, social security number, working phone number, and may sometimes be asked to provide recent pay stubs. However, with computerized filings, oftentimes you will only need to provide your former employer’s name and address, without having to provide wage or salary paperwork. Your most recent employer will be automatically contacted by the state unemployment agency to verify the circumstances and reasons of your work discharge or layoff. Their response will help determine whether you exhibit any of the disqualifying factors to receiving unemployment benefits such as you quitting on your own, or getting fired because you were stealing from them.

The amount of your weekly unemployment benefit checks will vary depending on your past income and the maximum limits of your filing jurisdiction. For those who are higher income earners, your weekly checks will be worth more. The maximum payout amount also differs from state to state. Just to give you a very rough ballpark figure of how much you can expect, the maximum payout for the District of Columbia is currently $359 a week, before tax. At about $1,436 a month, this definitely goes a long way to help pay for basic living expenses like rent until you can get back on your employment feet.

Usually there is a total amount of benefits that each specific applicant can draw upon before the entire fund for that benefit year is tapped out. But until that happens, applicants can usually receive benefits for 6 months straight (26 weeks) before depleting their entire emergency unemployment benefit reserves. Keep in mind as well, all unemployment payouts are considered taxable income. There is usually no tax withholding associated with unemployment benefits so you may be required to pay estimated taxes to meet your tax obligations.